Best paint for touching up small damaged areas

Hello Peter

I am sure you can find this in the UK as well We use a paint supplier to put the same paint as you would use if u paint the whole plane in spraycans that have 2 chambers
1 for the paint and 1 for the hardner by pushing in a rod the 2 componants mix and u can use it (oviously needs a good shake before use) u can use it only once as the hardner will dry up inside and get hard after being mixed

I also would get a “scan” from a cover panel or similar so they paintshop can mix up the right colour in tone as coulour might have changed over the years due to UV etc.

if u want anly to paint a small area 1 × 1 cm you can also use the same paint as above but notin a aerosol just in a small tin with some hardner to mix (be aware that here in Germany initial the will sale only water based paint to you as theis is for enviroment reason but if u say it is for a airplane or historic car they will sell you the “old style” paint (also like this no clear coat required)
brush the paint on the area u wont to touch up with a special paintbrush for touch up and let it try repeat a few times to have a"solid" new layers of paint (make sure it is all proper hardend etc)

than rub it down with wet and dry starting with 400grade than 600 grade and than 1000grade try to have the “new paint area” as flat as the paint arround it

finally buff it with a “3M type grind and polish” past with a airbuffer or electrical buffer with SLOW speed

u should have now a next to perfect look and finish

hope this helps

PS just be aware that modern car paint is NOT the right thing as it is mostly waterbased and need clear laquer

Peter wrote:

One-pack paints on the retail scene (e.g. the common spray cans from car parts / DIY shops) tend to be of poor quality

The often reported “poor quality” is actually in the amount of pigment. They are made for “touch up” and therefore do not have large amounts of pigment to be able to blend in better.

If that primer of yours is the same color as your main aircraft color, you can simply put a clear coat of 2k PU (from spray can) on top, or a 2k PU pigmented from spray can. I think these are only acrylic PU, but still PU.

I use industrial paint, 1K modified PE on my Onex (as trimming to the polished alu). This paint is dead easy to put on, work as primer and top coat, and will protect anything for ages. It is especially made for protection/coat on oil rigs in the North Sea, and is certified for it. The only down side is the price and it takes 2-3 weeks to obtain full mechanical/chemical strength (it is dry to touch in less than an hour). Also, it is not glossy, but that fits perfectly with the polished (and highly glossy and shining) alu.

Regarding paint, I don’t think I have seen any area where there is so much confusion and crazyness. It seems like everybody has to find their own solution that works, and stick to it. So I will not recommend anything, I only say that the modified PE North Sea stuff works for me for the time being

brush on should be fine and than u can rub it flat to match with the “old paint” just make sure u dont have any “sharp” edges with the old paint

for cosmetic repairs i have also used “fablon” self adisive vinyl and I had that “painted” in the coulour i needed it can be also a solution for visual apperance just had the alloy primed before

Peter wrote:

The Q is which lacquer would be compatible with the 2-pack epoxy primer

You just have to try and see. The general rule is to use the same “system” of primer, paint, etc, but that is easier said than done for repairs of old planes. Also take a look at boat paint. Lots of different manufacturers, but as opposed to car paint that is 100% spray, boat paint have smaller boxes (1/2 l or even 1/4 l) of 2k PU top paint maid for brush, roller or spray, very durable and you can mix tiny batches. Epoxy is not UV resistant, PU is.

I wouldn´t be too fussy with that small touch up and use some etch primer for alu or zinc . That should last very long and is no problem to apply from spray cans. You could fill the lid of the can for touching up with a brush if you prefer that. After this you can take any finish paint on top of it, also from spray cans. You do not paint a complete aircraft, so what …. Vic

etch primer

primer can

I think both types in my link are 1 K primers that should be allright for seeping into gaps for permanent protection. I don´t have much experience with these , in my country an “etch” primer is not very common, you get “Haftgrund” (sticky primer) for aluminium or zinc plated/galvanised objects that would not hold a paint otherwise. So the 1 l can would be great for some more jobs around the house and is a bit thicker in viscosity I guess. Thinking of it , last year I had the planetary gear case off and wanted to do the paint job right with 2 K epoxy primer under the 2 K acryl red top coat. Just to see lots of big bubbles after a few hours of operation – I was furious. The epoxy was maybe too old and did not stand the “heat” of about 80-100 degrees. So once again scrape away all paint on the plane and hand brush once more the case with one pack alu/zinc primer and the 2 K red with brush as well. Now that seems to work – as before. Same type of primer is on the Jag alu cylinder head under the correct gold top finish. Vic