Peter here is one of mine, shot with a GPH4B + ND16 filter and nearly zero prop (and usable image 
):
(Note: the trembling cam effect at the end was due to a mounting error of mine.)
The thing with the filters added in front is that they differ depending on the lighting conditions. Eg ND16 for a CAVU day, ND4 for OVC etc. In my GoPro at least and taking into account that I mount it “tightly”, if you meet these two weather conditions in the same flight there will be some… problem.
You have to be careful with polarizing filters and blue sky. The filter will darken the blue sky most when at 90° angle to the sun and least when straight into or away from the sun. When doing a pan or a turn in the aircraft, you may notice the blue sky suddenly becoming unusually dark.
That’s a good result, Atmilatos, but one could not say the propeller is anywhere near gone 
I posted this before but the only way to achieve “truly gone” is with a “real” shutter, running at 1/80 or slower (depending on the RPM). The Canon Legria G10 and my current G40 both do it nicely, but are obviously clumsy to use when flying.
I don’t think it has to be anywhere near gone – it just has to avoid the awful Venetian Blind effect.
Agree. The prop ought to be noticeable. Just as it is when sitting in the cockpit.
petakas wrote:
I intend to buy this ND filter for iPhone to remove the propeller effect in videos:
http://dckina.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_332_334&products_id=1999
Even though I proceeded with the above, there was also this option
https://www.nflightcam.com/collections/gopro-kits/products/nflightcam-smartphone-kit-3-0
but the audio is not for the iPhone7 jack
Peter wrote:
but I am not convinced the “shutter” implementation is the same. I can’t get the prop to disappear in the same way. I am not sure if anyone here knows the detailed differences between a phone and a camcorder e.g. a Canon G10/G40.
Interesting question re. camcorder as the sensor would be larger meaning even more light enters the camera…. meaning you need even faster shutter. But surely the camcorder would have an iris to set an F-stop? This is territory that phones have only just wandered into with the S9 having dual aperture.
It’ll be telling to see whether Apple follows this trend…!
AeroPlus wrote:
set the shutter speed for VIDEO to 1/80th of e.g. 1/125 to let the propellor disappear. If there is too much light, then use (additionally) an ND filter to reduce the light that comes in.
Thx. for that video Peter. Amazing the prop completely disappears!
Yes, exactly, the cam has a real physical iris, but you can achieve the same on a phone with some ND glass stuck on – setting aside depth of field issues which are irrelevant anyway for infinity subjects.
I think the implementation of the “shutter” is not the same, but I have no idea how. Funnily enough while the G10 at 1/80 made it vanish completely, the G40 at 1/80 doesn’t quite!
I need to do more investigation. The G10 was shooting at 25 or 30fps, the G40 was purchased purely because it does 50/60fps and that is perhaps the explanation. But neither does FilmicPro – see this post higher above.
Neither of these is convenient to carry. I sold the G10 on Ebay and bought the G40 at an “end of line” price, for special “jobs” which need the amazing stabilisation, the zero geometric distortion, natural colours…
GoPro Hero7 with prop filter?
Hi all,
I’m hoping the weather will be conducive to a Calvi trip late next week routing back via the GAFOR routes, and would like to get some footage from a GoPro. The intention would probably be to mount it on a suction pad on the aluminium coaming or similar, meaning a view through the propellor arc. The earlier GoPro’s had a prop filter which clipped on, but there is little mention made of use with the later GoPro’s. Can anyone offer any advice as to the likely outcome with/without out a filter?
Yes – crap pictures. There are ND filters available for all the GoPro models
