What are folks views on paint schemes. In particular, new style schemes, on older airframes?
I wrestled with exactly this question 10 years ago when planning a respray for my Twin Comanche. By default, I would consider first an original factory scheme. Second choice would be a more modern factory scheme for the same airframe. I did this once on a first generation M20J and was very pleased with the update from the old “201” scheme to the then current scheme
For me, the issue with the Twincom is that none of the original schemes quite worked for me. I know enough about design to know that designing a scheme for an airframe is much harder than it appears, especially as it is a £10-20k roll of the dice. I hired the services of Craig Barnett of Scheme Designers, and am still delighted with the results ten years on. Part of my brief was for a modern scheme, but one which referenced the age of the airframe, not one which hid it.
What are folks views on paint schemes. In particular, new style schemes, on older airframes?
Some airframes lend themselves to newer schemes, on others they look weired. I don’t think one can make a general statement.
For our rare plane, I found that this mid-2000’s TBM paint scheme works suprisingly well. If we decide to renew the paint in the next 2 or 3 years, this is our current favourite – though with red instead of blue to keep some resemblance to the present factory design.
especially as it is a £10-20k roll of the dice
At the mentioned shop at LKVM, you should end up substantially below these sums. I have heard 8k Euros for a Mooney.
One thing which I don’t understand is how do they get the existing paint off.
Fairly obviously they are not going to clean it out around each individual rivet.
Also how does one get rid of every last drop of a chemical stripper?
There must be, shall we say, different levels of preparation out there, depending on how much you pay. As with any other painting, the painting is the quick bit; it is the preparation that takes the time.
Near the beginning of EuroGA, one guy posted a glowing report on a paint shop in Lithuania. I think it was this one, though I am pretty sure there was an earlier one, and we also deleted one such very early report because it looked like straight advertising by the paint shop (in retrospect I think we were wrong in that, not knowing that the poster in fact had numerous identities on aviation forums all over the place). Much later, it became clear the plane was virtually lost due to some aspect of it which may have been the paint job. Now, if you sprayed a plane with aerosols from a car spares shop, it would last longer than that… but even Socata managed to paint TBs and TBMs such that large strips of paint would peel right off (leaving the primer) and they have a very impressive paint shop.
I cannot see a paint job being done right unless all control surfaces are removed and painted individually, and with a retractable the landing gear is totally dismantled and each piece painted individually. I know for a fact that most paint jobs are not done that way, so what do they do?
The retr. landing gear is normally not included in the paint job. But every good company will remove all control surfaces and rebalance them.
Rivets? What’s that? :-))
My scheme is very retro, and replicates some of the sixties, out of the factory, models. I have been toying with a full repaint, but….Do I go modern, do I go retro, and as Peter states, will it be done right?
By its nature, an airframe has many facets, and I wonder about the ongoing quality, particularly if it only takes a matter of weeks. Done correctly, I would imagine months, not weeks. That then shoots the price up, obviously.
Because I have a Bonanza, I naturally have been following the scheme designs of US based Bonanza owners. Some look great, others, well shall we say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I am sure to the owners concerned love their design. For that airframe, I am not sold on the new designs, preferring an older, plainer, and retro look.I think the new designs look better on the straight tail, not the vee.
From this thread, I actually contacted one of the shops and received a quote, however, asked if they could repaint the existing scheme and colour. My I/A, just wants to do it a bit at a time, which is where we have been at over the past few years, Time will tell..
The paint shop near me removes original paint on a concrete/bermed stripping rack, with all control surfaces removed and all gaps taped. Handwork follows and then high pressure water spray. They get all the paint off – nothing left, even around rivets. I share the concern about stripper getting where it shouldn’t be, and I think its a measurable risk even with good shops.
Swoopy paint schemes don’t appeal to me at all. My plane is mostly in original 1971 paint, and the condition warrants a repaint if you’re fussy. I don’t actually relish the thought or re-doing it because (as anal retentive collector types say) it’s only original once, and it has all kinds of great stickers, Oshkosh attendance in the late 70s etc. I want it to look exactly the same as it did coming of the factory – I’ve had decals made, and now sit worrying 
Once the stripper goes on there’s no going back to 1971 
BeechBaby,
your paint scheme looks very nice, just what that plane needs.
I must say I hate most designs by amateurs, paint shops and airplane owners. It’s much better to stick with one of the original schemes – those guys knew what they were doing! Okay, if i had one of those orange-brownish 172s I’d probably go for another combination, but I’d stay with the original scheme.
Thank you Flyer59, appreciate the comment. Yes, and in a bizarre way, it would be odd to spend a fortune (relative), to keep the same scheme and colour…..One is almost driven to change if getting a strip and repaint. Like Silvaire, I now lie awake at night worrying
No, I dont’t think that’s odd at all!
I have another plane, a 74 Warrior my father bought when i was 19 – still in original paint (“Bahama Blue”) and if I ever repaint it I will use better material but exactly the same scheme and color. In your case it’s the best you can do, because it will never get nicer than it is.
One thing which I don’t understand is how do they get the existing paint off.
Using chemical stripper, and scotch brite for aluminium aircraft, sanding for non metal aircraft
Fairly obviously they are not going to clean it out around each individual rivet.
The three painters I know all will clean around EVERY rivet until there is no paint or primer left. Leaving looks ugly and is potential corrosion point.
Also how does one get rid of every last drop of a chemical stripper?
Using a lot of water to wash it all off, All openings get covered by tape to prevent water from entering.
All controls get removed, this is also needed to balance the controls and clean all bearings and install them lubricated. Most shops will also remove the wheels after cleaning as it would be likely that water also entered the wheel bearings. So these are cleaned, dried and re-lubricated at a good shop as well.
Landing gear is often optional. To take it apart takes a lot of hours, and requires new seals. For sure this is the best methode, it is also quite expensive.
There must be, shall we say, different levels of preparation out there, depending on how much you pay. As with any other painting, the painting is the quick bit; it is the preparation that takes the time.
True, get a good aircraft painter. Seen some jobs of car painters, which mostly have troubles with rivets as they seem to apply more paint in a single layer. Which doesn’t seem to be a problem on cars, but is on each rivet.
