On my longer cross country flights I tried both watching films on an iPad and piping music into headset, but like Peter said, the constant interruptions make it unpleasant. I’ve found that reading is the best thing on those trips.
Dear AdamFrisch, in 1992 we invented something called “Karaoke” Mode which allows the pilot to either have the Radio and Intercom mute the music or have no muting at all. All of our audio panels have this function, some even have more advanced capabilities. When I fly, I almost always use our Karaoke Mode and have the music level set to a background level. It eliminates the frustration of having the music going up and down all of the time.
@Mark, I am currently in Siegerland, near Frankfurt, Germany and I would like to replace an old KMA 24 in a Socata TB20 with the PMA7000 or 8000BT.
Do you have any authorized dealer nearby with the product on stock that can eventually do or intermediate the installation work?
Or, if anyone on GA forum did a similar job, please let. me know… Thank you!
Hi Alex!
There are two approaches to this upgrade, lower cost cost of install with a good set of capabilities (PMA7000BT) or pay a bit more for labor on the lower cost of the PMA8000BT and get much more flexibility.
Because we recently reduced the prices on our PMA8000 series, the PMA8000BT is actually less expensive to purchase the PMA7000BT. The MAP on the PMA7000BT has a MAP $1634 (which includes the tray and install kit) versus MAP of the PMA8000BT of $1495 (which includes the tray and install kit).
So the $140 you might save buying the PMA8000BT could go towards the higher install costs of the PMA8000BT.
The reason it costs more to install the PMA8000BT then the PMA7000BT is that the PMA7000BT will reuse the connector that the KMA24 is using, and only the intercom harness has to be built and routed.
The PMA8000BT would require repining the KMA24 connector to the PMA8000BT connector.
I can highly recommend Avionik Straubing as our Diamond Dealer in your area.
Hope this information helps.
Thank you, @Mark. I will contact them. What would be the best approach in order to have it installed as soon as possible? Order it online on your website or let Avionik Straubing take care of everything?
They just responded…. next available slot would be in January 2018!!?
Any suggestion?
I have contacted some avionics shops in Europe and nobody wants to work on a TB20, they either say they have no time or quote well in excess of $5,000 for installation costs only. It seems everybody is changing their radios to 8.33kzh spacing and all the shops are busy doing this and couldn’t care less about a simple audio panel…
It’s frustrating and I think the job is simple enough so I can do it myself (just a few pins to solder from a connector to another). However, I don’t know if any FAA inspector can later certify the work.
I wonder if it needs an STC or is it considered a major modification under FAA?
Anyone can work on an N-reg under the supervision of an A&P. Same on EASA-reg; anyone can work on it under the supervision of an EASA66.
On N-reg, avionics installations are classified as “airframe” so no formal radio qualification is required.
So you can do it yourself if you know an A&P.
See here
The installed job, if done under an STC (which is how most European N-reg work is done these days) needs an inspection by an A&P/IA who then signs the 337 and that is posted to Oklahoma. If there is no STC for your specific airframe then you have three options:
Some dumb avionics shops flatly don’t want to work on a TB20 because they are too dumb to know which ones have or don’t have the two front inspection covers which make the job much easier. But you may be able to do it entirely from the centre stack, if you pull out some other boxes above/below for access. Most avionics shops are wiremen only… I have been around this block several times. But as you say they are currently printing money doing 8.33 work.
Depending on where you are, I might know an A&P/IA.
You will probably have to use a crimper like the tool on the right. It is a cheap universal model, but a ratcheting type with the correct Molex dies (EDP 11-01-0203, CR6115B) would be better. Also save yourself trouble by using a double-action wire stripper (left). You can download the installation manual.
Incidentally a friend has a TB20-like panel in his homebuilt which he wired himself with the help of a friend. Guess where they used to work.
Simon
This thread will really impress your new Tinder date 
