I´d suggest having torx types made. Even in carpentry they skipped those Philips years ago for spax with torx head. It sems to me those Socata parts had been standard M 4 modified to 100 degree countersunk. A toolmaker apprentice could do 50 of them in an hour for a tenner. I can´t check for the moment if this was possible to do with torx but I could tell Sunday.
Of course in your place I´d get me a light cordless drill driver max. 2 lbs. and set the torque myself, secured by sticky tape, supply the torx bits and let those blokes in the shop swear never ever to take anything else for those screws. Any damage will be at their own costs – definitely.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/350704509801?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.de/itm/350900840900?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I agree 100% about doing this for myself but if one was looking to do a bulk buy I think that would worry a lot of people because the screw would be obviously not a Socata part 
I think the head is smaller than standard. I’ve had a few offers but the heads are all bigger.
Most European aircraft manufacture buys a lot of kit from direct from commercial sources and puts an EASA form one on the stuff along with the price that reflects the value of the form one.
As said above there are ways around the form one price hike especially with metric hardware, as there is no metric aviation standard as there is with American hardware buying the correct commercial item with C of C paperwork is exceptable practice.
One European manufacture authorises there service centres to buy direct from these sources provided there is a C of C audit trail, of course how much of the cost saving is passed on to the customer is a decision left entirely to the maintenance company.
The head is the wrong shape.
might be worth a call.
Absolutely everybody and their dog makes M4x14 CSK Philips screws, in stainless steel. And you can probably find a 100 degree one.
The problem in this case is that this is a nonstandard diameter (or depth, if you like) head, and with a small corner radius. Sure one can drive in the off the shelf screws but they will look like they came from a DIY shop, which they probably did
I wouldn’t tolerate the problem that leads to this need. To the maintenance outfits we’ve used, we’ve said “Suggest you do not use power screwdrivers. We will inspect screws disturbed after any work, and if you damage any you will pay for them.”
I do something similar when getting new car tyres. I tell them they can undo nuts using airguns but not torque them up. I will check them afterwards with the wheelbrace and if any have been clearly over-torqued with an airgun then back in we go and I start asking difficult questions about how they propose to remedy the fact that they may well have stretched and weakened the studs.
Very simple stuff. When I pay professionals to work on my machinery I require that they refrain from breaking it.
The Philips head is notorious for getting damaged as they ‘cam’ out.
Pozi are much better (with the correct screwdriver) and there are loads of metric in A2 stainless in pozi for none structural stuff.
As for electric screwdrivers, I use them all the time. It’s the person not tool. If the engineer can’t use tools properly why are you letting him touch your aircraft?
If he does damage one and leaves it in, again change your engineer.
The annual of my Cessna would take a day longer without power screwdrivers. Yes, the screw heads wear quickly but for most US made airplanes, the screws are cheap and standard. My shop does not charge for screws, that is included in the fixed price for the annual. I replace every year what I think is worth replacing. Using a power screwdriver without a torque setting would be stupid. Also many people in Europe use the standard bits which do not fit the US screw heads well. Get the special bits, they’re not expensive.
After 30+ years of removing the same parts over and over again, you end up using screws one or two sizes bigger in many places
