The "airways obsession" seems to be a British thing, I've never heard about it for anything but Eurocontrol IFR route planning. There are a few VFR routes e.g. along the Adriatic coast but that's something else.
Airspace E is very common in most European countries and there is no obligation to contact ATC or FIS, even if it's full with IFR traffic. If you have your Mode S transponder working, ATC can provide very good traffic advisories (no separation!) to IFR traffic without having you on the frequency. In countries where FIS is separate from ATC (e.g. France and Germany), you usually get a special transponder code from FIS to show to the ATC colleague that FIS is in touch with you.
In my experience, France looks just horrible on the map but it very pleasant to actually fly in/through. FIS usually sort out your transits well in advance and you don't have to do anything but switch from one FIS to the next every now and then. I guess the only ones flying those VFR airways in France are pilots from the UK 
As the UK does not have Class E airspace, the term CAS (controlled airspace) is often used for airspace where VFR pilots need a clearance to enter. That is not correct and very confusing when talking to pilots from other countries because Class E is controlled airspace (= ATC services available) but no permission to enter is required. In Germany, Class E starts from where radio communication is ensured (1500-2500ft AGL), in France it's a bit higher. The reason for Germany's Class E to start so low is that IFR is prohibited in Class G.
It's certainly true that if you are VFR then you can just fly anywhere where ATC clearance is NOT required i.e. Class E-G.
There is no need to fly any "routes" as such. Well, not in N. Europe. In say Greece they expect you to fly on published routes, especially IFR routes such as e.g. A14.
The "problem" with France is that it has loads of military airspace. Most of it is low level (below a few k feet) but not all of it. And flying in the Class E (base usually FL065) airspace avoids almost all of that military stuff. Obviously it's been designed that way, because that's where the Eurocontrol IFR routes go.
So it is just convenient to plan the flight on the Class E routes. You get a VOR-VOR backup for your GPS (note: not many DMEs in France) and ATC understand what you are doing so they are even more chilled than normal.
The gotcha with flying above FL065 is that it often puts you above the cloud, which is a nice smooth way to fly, but it can get "interesting" if you end up above a solid overcast. Whereas flying below cloud (99% of UK GA does that) means that this cannot, in theory, ever happen, because if the cloudbase gets too low you will turn back (won't you 
).
So one needs to be sure of the destination weather (FEW/SCT or better, I suppose) of doing this. Obviously there are other methods if the airport is on the coast.
Just to add my experience. A few years ago I flew from Saarbrücken to Girona with a fuel stop in St. Etienne. Happily chugged along at 8500 in pretty much a direct line. Only had to divert a couple of times on the first leg due to CBs, but ATC couldn't have been more accommodating (or just couldn't care less). Filed a FP, then gave them my waypoints and the answer consistently was 'cleared direct'. Which, btw, is my general experience flying on the continent anyway. I've never really had CAS transit issues with the exception of a couple of active MIL areas. But then again, I don't really wanna be Typhoon target practice fodder.....
With Peter again here... My experience from doing this last year, which might be where my preference comes from:
Departed Nantes with the intention of routing pretty much due South down the coast to San Sebastian. Checked with ATC before departure that the danger areas down the coast were not active, which they confirmed. Once in the air and in contact with Bordeaux we were informed that the restricted areas were in fact very active, upon which we were given a heading to the Bordeaux overhead and from there a direct 'Ensac'. Thankfully the inland 'airways' routing was already loaded into the GPS as the backup, albeit longer route, so it was no big deal. Trying a few routes with Sky Demon does seem to indicate that following these routes does tend to keep one clear of places you don't want to be.
I agree that transiting airspace in France though even at lower VFR levels is indeed very straight forward. So straightforward in comparison to the UK that the clearances do seem like they are coming quite late, so they probably get a little irritated by us 'nudging' them with frequency change requests when what they intend is simply to hand you to the next controller.
Also much varies according to weekday v. weekend.
For example, from when I used to fly in France VFR, most of the French mil stuff is inactive at weekends. I used to fly all the way down the long straight western beach, into San Sebastian (back when San Seb had Customs.....). I could never get a clearance there on a weekday.
I think that is one reason why peoples' experiences can vary.
I've most definitely been absolutely refused into some of France's mil areas when flying IFR, recently, FL100-120. On one occassion they got quite ratty ("the military commander insists..." but I stuck to my track due to CBs to one side.
Weekend indeed a different kettle of 'frogs'! No problem getting a routing back up the west coast. As I recall after the first experience of getting bad information on the ground we managed to dig out a phone number for Brest Info from the French AIP ENR 2.1 who were more than helpful at confirming what was active when.
I agree that transiting airspace in France though even at lower VFR levels is indeed very straight forward. So straightforward in comparison to the UK that the clearances do seem like they are coming quite late, so they probably get a little irritated by us 'nudging' them with frequency change requests when what they intend is simply to hand you to the next controller.
This has always been my experience too. Be warned though - a mate of mine got seriously b*ll+cked once for assuming he had a clearance, in the laid-back French way, and busting some Class D. They actually made him turn round and go outside the airspace, then ask nicely IIRC !!
They actually made him turn round and go outside the airspace, then ask nicely IIRC !!
That's the funniest thing that I've heard in a long time!
Obviously I'd much prefer it be dealt with like that than have to official reports and having to answer to the authorities, but none the less it's very funny! I like their thought process!
As a police friend of mine once told me....he'll give someone a bollcking or a ticket; not both.
I agree that the clearances in France are sometimes a bit too "implicit". In the beginning I felt I was going on FIS' nerves by repeatedly asking for confirmation and now I fear I might over enthusiastically bust an airspace on something that only I consider to be a clearance.
We don't have a Mode S in our group PA28. Am assuming this would be an issue, judging by previous comments? Is it simply a no-go without?
