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How to best touch up this minor damage

Peter wrote:

Shipping by Schenker for 2 spray cans (ca. 1 kg) will be £244 (£140 of which is because paint is considered dangerous goods). The paint itself will be £20 per can, £40 total.

I know, it’s terrible. I tried to order chemical stuff from LAS, Duralac amongst other things. It all went up in smoke, because they couldn’t even find a way to ship it to Norway. They could get it to Sweden, with the prices as you describe, then I would have to go to Sweden myself and pick it up (doable, but still). It’s a shame because LAS got some very good chemical aviation products, made for European climate Duralac I got from a boating retail store here at 3-4 times the price at LAS (still infinitely cheaper than the asked for shipping cost from the UK). Then I found this Powercoat 3 in 1, which also is rather expensive, but readily available (to me).

The elephant is the circulation
ENVA ENOP ENMO, Norway

You might get a good enough result using an alodine touch-n-prep pen followed by a car-style touch up.

Alternatively, 2 part epoxy-based chromated primer is the gold standard, but it’s horrible stuff – and you’d have to sand back a larger area to make it practical to spray it.

EGEO

Thanks for the tips… I have used Duralac for wet riveting on aluminium pop rivets when repairing the engine baffles. A lot of water gets driven in there when flying in rain. It’s messy work…

I wonder if someone in Norway would be interesting in popping a can or two of that Powercoat stuff in an airmail package?

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

Peter wrote:

I wonder if someone in Norway would be interesting in popping a can or two of that Powercoat stuff in an airmail package?

No problem, if you take all the expenses. I have never used this Jomashop, but they are considerably less expensive than the local shop here. Jomashop seems interesting for later use also. I have to purchase some cans myself right now, and I can add one or two for you.

Which color? The rattle cans only exist in a few RAL colors: (or did you mean the other can, use your own spray equipment?)

The elephant is the circulation
ENVA ENOP ENMO, Norway

I will go for the RAL9010 white. Normal spray can. I will send you a PM with my details. Very many thanks!

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

I did it today.

Checked there really was no crack in the metal, rubbed it down and sprayed it with the Rustoleum stuff above. Doesn’t look too bad

The paint was also done underneath but cleared afterwards with a counterbore bit to ensure contact for the static wick.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

Looks good, when can you touch up mine ! :-)

Alex
Shoreham (EGKA) White Waltham (EGLM), United Kingdom

I am happy to have a go but we would need to do it outside, well away from all other aircraft, and in totally still air.

To be honest I am rubbish at this, and it is visually obvious, but this way prevents further corrosion. Let’s face it, you aren’t going to do a respray (15k?) every time a bit of paint comes off.

I am tempted to get a mobile car touch-up man to come along and do all the various bits which have accumulated over the years. AFAIK one can get permission for that, as one can get it for the wax/polish outfits. Maybe we should get together and book one to do both our planes.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom

That’s a good idea Peter. I’ve just had the little bits touched up at the annual. I’m sure there is a good days work in the hanger

Alex
Shoreham (EGKA) White Waltham (EGLM), United Kingdom

One has to be really careful to not send overspray onto another plane. Somebody did that to mine, a few years ago, and never admitted it. I didn’t discover it until a few days later by which time it had gone hard. It took a day of hard work just to get the white specs off the windows; the rest of the plane I just left.

When I have seen careful people spray in a hangar, they move all the other planes outside.

Administrator
Shoreham EGKA, United Kingdom
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