The Baltic Sea coast of Germany - useful airfields and worthwhile places summarized

The German part of the Baltic Sea coast (between the Danish border in the north and the Polish border in the east) is of course very pretty to overfly and also, once on the ground, it has many attractions for touring pilots. Since I was born and raised in Luebeck, I know this coast quite well, so I thought I would present you the most useful landing options in the vicinity of the coast. This is hoping that there will be not too many travel/tourism restrictions this coming summer so that this might actually prove helpful for some of you.

This is written primarily for non-German and non-German speaking, occasional (summer season) visitors. Therefore I will only present you those airfields which have:

• tarmac runway(s)
• regular (every day) opening times, at least in the summer season, during which no PPR is required
• fuel
• English language service for A/G / AFIS / TWR respectively

which is what most visitors from other countries seem to be looking for.

There are a few more small (and actually very nice) airfields lacking some of the above, but anybody so inclined can of course fire up Skydemon and find these with ease.

First of all, for your overview, a satellite view of the entire region we are talking about:

I will also split this into two sections. The first one is about the western part, belonging to Schleswig-Holstein. In other words, this is the stretch from the Danish border all the way down to and including Luebeck. The second section will be about the eastern part, belonging to Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. In other words, this is the stretch from just east of Luebeck all the way to the Isle of Usedom, which mostly belongs to Germany, whilst a small part belongs to Poland.

THE WEST

Here is a Skydemon screenshot, with some of the airspaces removed for more clarity:

Let’s cover them one by one, from north to south.

Flensburg-Schaeferhaus (EDXF)

The city of Flensburg – Germany’s most northerly one – is actually not quite on the Baltic Sea coast. It is a bit inland, at the end of a long firth extending from the Baltic Sea, the “Flensburger Foerde”. Anyway, the airfield is very close to the city and is very suitable if you want to explore the very northern parts of the Germany’s Baltic coast (or even a bit of Denmark).

This is an “Info” airfield, as we would say in Germany (similar to an A/G service in the UK). There are no instrument approaches.
Avgas 100LL and Jetfuel are available. (For Avgas in particular, I suggest to rather fuel up at nearby Rendsburg, EDXR, which has the cheapest fuel in all of Germany).

No rental cars (including app2drive) are permanently available on the airfield, but apparently, several offices in the city will supply a car at the airfield.
It’s only a very short taxi drive into the city, where walk-in car rentals, trains, etc. are available. There is also a bus line passing close to the airfield with very regular service to the city. Flensburg is very nice for a day or so. The old town is obviously located at the very end of the firth, with a nice marina and fishing port, etc. In the vicinity, there a few nice small beaches. Plus, of course, Denmark.

Kiel-Holtenau (EDHK)

Kiel is located at the western end of the Kiel Firth. It is halfway between the Danish border and Luebeck. Actually, Kiel is the capital of Schleswig-Holstein. As such, it maintains its own “full service” airfield, despite no airline services anymore (the airfield also nearly got closed down a few years ago).

The approaches and departures over the firth are amongst the most beautiful ones in Germany.

This is an AFIS airfield, so an uncontrolled one, but with instrument approaches, including ILSes. The fees a bit on the high side for what it that airfield is.
They have Avgas 100LL and Jetfuel, but again, I suggest Rendsburg for much cheaper fuel. The airfield opening times are a little limited.

No rental cars (including app2drive) on the airfield. (App2Drive used to have a car there, but no more).
It’s only a short taxi drive (or bus ride) into the city, where car rentals, trains, etc. are available.
Kiel is not a particularly pretty city. It was mostly destroyed during the war and then rebuilt in “contemporary” fashion. Every June, Kiel hosts the “Kieler Woche” (Kiel Week), a major sailing event. If you are not into sailing, avoid this week if visting Kiel.

Anyway, there are lots of nice places and beaches on both sides of the Kieler Foerde.
One of them is Laboe, on the other side of the firth. There you also find U-995, a German Type-VII U-boat from the Second World War, prepared as a museum. You can get there crossing the firth with a small ferry, from either the city, or from Friedrichsort, near the airfield.

Luebeck-Blankensee (EDHL)

Just this year, Luebeck has again become a small “airline” airport. GA pilots therefore have to endure a bit of security faff. Still, the fees are moderate. Very good opening times. It has all sorts of instrument approaches. Avgas 100LL, Jetfuel and Avgas UL91 are available.

Rental cars, including, but not only, App2Drive are available at the airfield.
The city of Luebeck (which is not very far) can also be reached by train, bus or taxi. Its historic old city, surrounded on all sides by water, has been partially rebuilt after the war and is a major tourist attraction.

Otherwise, explore the Luebecker Bucht and its beach resorts: Travemünde, Timmendorfer Strand (very conveniently reachable by train), Scharbeutz, Groemitz. etc are very nice, although sometimes quite crowded places in summer. Or even visit the Isle of Fehmarn. To the east of Luebeck, some beaches of Mecklenburg, for example Boltenhagen, are also very nice. The old town of Wismar is also within reasonable reach of EDHL (one hour by car).

In case of a bad weather day, take a train or car and go to Hamburg.

THE EAST

Generally speaking, the part of the German Baltic Sea coast belonging to Mecklenburg-Vorpommern is a bit less developed. In many places, you still see remnants of the ex-GDR, particular the “Plattenbauten”, i.e massive, often ugly pre-fabricated housing districts. Some might that a point of interest though. Sometimes, you will still notice a certain kind of mentality of the people there.

Here are two Skydemon screenshots, showing the more westerly and the more easterly bits:

Let’s cover them one by one again, from west to east:

Rostock-Laage (ETNL)

This is a big, joint civil & military airport. ATC is military, but mostly OK in practice. In non-Covid times, it has a few airline flights, mostly in summer. It also is a training base of the Lufthansa flying school.

They have all sorts of instrument approaches. Fees are moderate. Avgas 100LL and Jetfuel are available.

As a downside, the airport is very far from the city of Rostock (32km) and nearby beaches (45km). You essentially need a car. App2Drive, but also (in “non-Covid” times,) classic rental cars such as from Avis, are available.

Rostock itself has a nice old town, worth a visit. Up by the sea, the most famous place is Warnemuende. It is actually very similar to Travemuende, near Luebeck and worth a visit. Kuehlungsborn is also a popular place for going to the beach in summer. Wismar is also within an hour’s drive from the airport of Laage.

Barth (EDBH)

A provincial airfield. Very low activity outside of the tourist season. Busy only in summer. It’s an AFIS airfield, so it is uncontrolled, but with instrument approaches (GPS only). Avgas 100LL and Jetfuel are avaIaible.

No rental cars (including app2drive) on the airfield, but possible by prior arrangement with the airfield operator. But they do have bikes (including e-bikes) for rent on the airfield. Otherwise, it’s a short taxi ride into the town of Barth (pretty, but small). This is not right on the Baltic Sea, but on a lagoon (“Bodden”). From there, you can take a short ferry ride over to the pensinula called Darss, by the town and beach of Zingst. Not as crowded in summer as some other places.

Ruegen-Guettin (EDCG)

Germany’s biggest island, Ruegen, has a GA airfield located right in its centre. This one, like Flensburg, is just an “Info”-airfield (A/G). It has no instrument approaches.
Avgas 100LL and Jetfuel are available, but usually a tad on the expensive side.

Note: officially, the A/G is “German only”. However, in practice, many foreign pilots visit every year, so it looks like they will do the radio in English if needed. Another downside is the poor quality of their (grass) parking.

The airfield operator has own rental cars that are provided on a first come first served basis. Book as soon as practical. Not cheap. With Ruegen being such a big island, a car is very useful. Taxi rides to any place by the sea get expensive. One highlight of Ruegen is the “Kreidefelsen” (chalk cliffs) between the major seaside towns of Binz and Sellin. Lots of tourists in summer, though.

Also, if you have a car, also do visit Stralsund. This small city is actually not on the Isle of Ruegen, but on the adjacent mainland (connected by a bridge). Stralsund old town is very beautiful, surrounded by water on three sides.

If you do get a taxi from the airfield to the town of Bergen, then you can move around the island by train decently.

Peenemuende (EDCP)

This big airfield is located on the Isle of Usedom. Precisely, in the very west of it. This is also just an “Info” (A/G) airfield. No instrument approaches.
The airfield is very much ex-GDR style. Runways and taxiways are rough. Avgas 100LL and UL91 available (expensive). No Jetfuel.
The guy running the airfield has a bit of a reputation…

In the village of Peenemuende, there is a tech museum (Peenemuende was the place where is V2 rocket was developed in WW2). This can actually be reached by a 15-minute walk. There is also a U-Boat museum in Peenemuende.

(Basic) bikes and even electric cars can be rented from the airfield operator, but other than nature, there is not all that much to see or do in the very west of Usedom (although the never-ending beach at Karlshagen is nice and less crowded than those in the east of the island).

Heringsdorf (EDAH)

The main “commercial” airport on Usedom, right by the Polish border. In the main tourist season, this is an airline airport, with some ensuing security faff for private pilots. Opening times could be better. Also note that they change between TWR (ATC-controlled) and Info (non-controlled) as needed. And for instrument approaches, you need the TWR to be active.

Various instrument approaches are availabe, including ILSes (no radar vectors for approaches to runway 28). Avgas 100LL and Jetufel on tap. Fees are moderate. Try to get a parking spot on the tarmac. There is an aircraft museum (Hangar 10) on the airport.

App2Drive, plus other classic rental car brands (need to make prior booking of course) are available. However, the most beautiful seaside towns of Bansin, Heringsdorf and Ahlbeck are not too far and taxis are not too expensive. Very nice beaches. Lots going on in summer. Taking a taxi over to the Polish side (Swinemuende) also no problem and worthwhile, for a change of scenery.