I understand, and understand the joy of making your own parts. I do have a 3D printer as well and enjoy using it. Only think the flexible part would be a little better. Don’t forget to keep a little gap, so the pressure can equalize constantly.
Anyone who knows how to use a lathe would make 5 of those static port plugs before a printer has made one. It would be ready to use off the machine, whereas printed parts seem to need finishing to some extent.
We use a 3D printer to make models of injection moulded parts before we spend the thousands on tooling, and they are brilliant for making complex parts, but for simple round ones machining produces much better parts much quicker.
I agree the technology is fascinating though
It is difficult to machine soft nylon. I have nylon rod and use it make bushes etc but it is a machineable type which would just break off if used for the static port plug.
One could injection mould these plugs, in China, with a tooling cost of about $1k-2k (for the sort of quick and dirty single impression tool which the Chinese like) but the minimum batch would be about 10k pieces.
If one could print strong metal parts that would be more interesting e.g.
which is a bracket, in aluminium, costing several hundred €. It is used to attach a 600N gas strut which holds up the door in a TB GT.
I do think machining static port part will be difficult, especially if you wan’t to have it like the original one, curved. Could be done.
You can do some injection molding yourself. Have done this in the past for some vintage car parts. At that time made a mold from a know good part
and copied the good part.
The door bracket would be very easy to machine out of solid aluminium, which would be much better than printed metals IMHO. To bad the PMA structure doesn’t really exist at EASA, would be a nice project. Can’t you machine this yourself Peter, it doesn’t seem to be that complex?
Yes I could mill that up in a couple of hours, but I don’t need to since I have already bought this one (2x). I just measured it up in case somebody else wants to save themselves a lot of money.
Back to the static port plug, it may be nylon but is more likely acetal resin which is a lot tougher. You do not want the tapered bit to break off and get stuck in the static port. At work we use acetal for terminal blocks; we buy it from LATI in Italy who then ship it to Morsettalia in Italy who make the terminals. In the past LATI would not ship to Morsettalia and would only ship to us in the UK and we had to ship it back to Italy (2000kg!).
Acetal machines easily with standard cutting tools. It always used to be more commonly known as Delrin
This is the original Socata static port plug
The cylinder is 10mm dia and 10mm long.
The tapered pin is 22mm long and its diameter starts at 4.4mm and ends at 3.2mm.
The bend in the pin is caused by the bend inside the static hole (to stop rainwater running in, presumably) and this needs to be left alone. If you straighten it, eventually that bit of the pin will break off 
I have some acetal resin (Delrin) and will machine some up, because AFAICT one can’t buy these exact ones off the shelf.
Looks like a bent golf tee peg
Looks like a bent golf tee peg
Some TB-pilots have actually put golf tees into the static ports (NOT a very good idea) and at least one punctured his static line by doing this.
I use a Nylon dowel. They don’t expand when wet and are soft enough. However, still working on a 3D printed version using ABS. Latest STL file with some modifications from psz (thank you!!!) looks like this Static Port
Previous version added all kinds of support scaffolding at the tip, which has to manually removed. Turning it around 180 degrees hopefully will help.
It doesn’t have the bend which I don’t see why it would be needed. It also requires the plug to be made of softer material.
