I only went over it a few times but the analysis showed almost no change in metals. It was a 2006 engine with 900 hours.
After flying, remove oil dipstick to let the warm moist air out of engine.
I have had some interesting debates on this one. When do you put the dipstick back in?
Yes - I pull the dipstick (assuming I remember) on my small Continental after flight. The oil tank has a large volume filler neck, made from a steel tube, and it's the perfect place for water to precipitate out as the engine cools. It's hard to prevent rust forming there. I leave the cowling undone so I remember to reinstall the dipstick.
You aren't worried about damp, cool air having access to the engine?
I am. That's why I also use a engine dehumidifier. Works perfect! All I have to do is to dry the silica gel in a owen about twice a year.
A few years ago I almost finished building a little battery powered device which sucked air in (with a little fan) through a 0.5kg bag of silica gel, and the dry air out of it would be piped into the exhaust pipe.
Such things exist on the US market, I believe.
I never finished it partly because I fly once a week at least, and a any feasible battery (bearing in mind I cannot have anything plugged in when in the hangar, due to restrictions) would only last a few days.
But blowing dried air up the exhaust would be much simpler and more effective than any silica gel plug because silica gel (which I use all the time at work) sucks up moisture quickly until it is saturated and then it is useless. Also an engine is full of cavities which are not well vented into any single place and moisture in those would need a positive displacement.
You aren't worried about damp, cool air having access to the engine?
In a humid climate I would want to reinstall the filler cap after the engine cools.
Just got another set of results in.
Despite the sample being 47 hours old (longer than my usual) it clearly shows that Camguard achieves astonishing reductions in iron, nickel, copper and chromium. Oddly enough aluminium is not affected.
This was still on the 50/50 mix of Shell W80 and 15W50.
I would say engine wear goes down by a factor of two at least. Well worth the £20 bottle at every oil change.
Despite the sample being 47 hours old (longer than my usual) it clearly shows that Camguard achieves astonishing reductions in iron, nickel, copper and chromium. Oddly enough aluminium is not affected.
Maybe Camguard works by oxydizing the metals so they are no longer detected by oil analysis? Nobody will notice and happily pay 25 € per bottle. Wouldn't be the first time 
No, would not be reliable enough. It might just happen to oxidise the whole lot and then it would be obvious...
Is Camguard recommended for use with straight mineral oil during the engine run-in period?
